Important Points Before Buying an Automatic Watch (Mechanical Wristwatch)

2/20/2025 Author | Translator: Sahar Najibi

The movement of a watch is the primary driving force behind the wristwatch. In fact, it can be said that the movement is the heart of the watch, and it’s likely to be one of the most challenging factors for you when purchasing a watch. But how many types of movements are there for watches? What is the difference between them, and how do they make the watch move? It’s certain that when buying a new wristwatch, you might wonder if the movement affects the price of the watch. This article is about mechanical movements and their types in watches, where we will explain both the general concepts and the details.

What is a Mechanical Watch Movement? (Difference Between Mechanical and Quartz Watches)

This type of movement uses energy other than a battery. The main difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch lies in the power source inside the movement. Quartz watches are powered by batteries, while mechanical watches use a winding spring that never runs out of energy. To explain the mechanical movement more comprehensively, it consists of a series of interlinked gears and small parts. The integrity and connection of these small parts, linked to the winding crown, create a regular and precise motion. By winding the crown, the necessary force is stored in the mechanical spring, which then causes the gears to start moving. The result of this integration within the movement components is the movement of the watch hands.

How to Identify a Watch Movement: Mechanical or Quartz?

The simplest way to determine whether a watch has a mechanical or quartz movement is by checking the inscription on the dial or the back case, which typically reads "automatic" or "quartz." However, there are other visual methods as well. For example, observe the movement of the second hand. If you notice that the second hand in most mechanical watches moves smoothly, that’s characteristic of a mechanical movement, whereas in quartz watches, the second hand has a ticking motion. Additionally, when you look at the back case of most automatic mechanical watches, you'll often see a glass window revealing a balance wheel inside. This is the mechanical movement of the automatic type.

The difference between an automatic movement and a quartz movement

History of the Mechanical Movement:

If you're familiar with the world of watches, you should know that the first watches were made with mechanical (winding) movements. Peter Henlein is described as the first person to create a mechanical-winding wristwatch in 1510. However, the claim for this invention is more commonly associated with the 19th century. Before the advent of quartz movements, all wristwatches were made with mechanical movements. The downside to these watches was their very low accuracy, which could deviate by up to 15 minutes a day. As mechanical watches powered by a winding crown lost popularity in the 1970s, watchmakers introduced changes to the industry. The result of this change was the creation of automatic mechanical watches. These automatic movements, in terms of how they were powered, became more popular than their winding counterparts.

Types of Mechanical Movements: Automatic or Winding Watches?

The mechanism of mechanical movements consists of a series of gears, a spring, and a winding crown to charge the spring. As mentioned earlier, mechanical movements are divided into two categories:

Winding Mechanical Watches
Automatic Mechanical Watches

Winding Mechanical Watches:

The movement of this type of watch is powered by winding the crown and charging the spring (also known as the mainspring). To wind this type of movement, simply turn the crown until it becomes tight. By turning the crown clockwise (when the crown is pushed in), the necessary energy is transferred to the winding spring inside the movement. This energy is then passed on to the gears, causing the watch hands to move. Additionally, to ensure the time display does not stop, winding must be done once every 24 hours. The daily winding and the amount of winding required for winding watches (also known as manual movements) depend on the spring and the type of movement, determining how much it needs to be charged and how long the charge will last.

Automatic Mechanical Watches:

The difference between these types of movements and winding ones is the use of a rotor, which, in addition to the winding crown, helps charge the mainspring inside the movement. This is why automatic watches are also called "self-winding" or "pulse watches" (although the term "pulse watch" is completely incorrect, and we'll explain why shortly). The operation of automatic watches, aside from charging the mainspring through the crown, also involves moving the rotor (also known as a metal weight or oscillator). By simply rotating the watch or moving your wrist while wearing the watch, the rotor inside the movement starts to move, providing the necessary energy to wind the mainspring. This is why automatic watches gained more popularity compared to manual winding watches.

The tourbillon watch is also a type of mechanical watch, but...

The biggest drawback of mechanical watches has always been the impact of gravity on them, which affects their accuracy in timekeeping. To address this issue, the tourbillon movement was created. The first tourbillon movement was patented in 1795 by Abraham Louis Breguet. Additionally, the first tourbillon watch, weighing about 100 kilograms, was designed by Breguet for Napoleon, and it accompanied him during one of his journeys.

The first tourbillon watch made for Napoleon

The importance of the tourbillon movement in wristwatches lies in reducing the effects of gravity on the mechanical movement's components, ensuring accurate timekeeping without tolerance. Due to the impact gravity has on the balance wheel and spring, which regulate the timing of the gear train, a balance compensator is added to the tourbillon movement to help improve the timing accuracy. It’s important to note that while producing mechanical movements is costly and complex, tourbillon movements are even more expensive and complicated to make. The production of a tourbillon movement is so costly and time-consuming that not all watch brands are capable of creating such movements. In fact, only luxury and powerful watch brands produce limited-edition tourbillon watches each year, showcasing their craftsmanship and the sheer power of their horological expertise.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Automatic and Battery-Powered Watches

If we categorize wristwatch movements, we generally encounter two types:

Mechanical: The oldest and first type of movement in the world of watches, consisting of tiny interconnected and integrated parts. Its power source comes from winding the crown or the motion of the watch itself, and this energy source never runs out.
Quartz: The fierce competitor to mechanical movements, powered by a battery that needs to be replaced once exhausted.

It should be noted that the mechanical movement is the most traditional type in the watch industry and, due to its history and legacy, mechanical watches have great popularity among watch enthusiasts. However, despite this popularity, mechanical watches also have their advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of Mechanical Watches:

Attractive design of the movement and watch face
No need for battery replacement or energy source change
Historical value and authenticity
Smooth movement of the hands
Timelessness, even for future generations

Disadvantages of Mechanical Watches:

Higher price compared to quartz watches
Requires winding and charging the movement
Less accuracy compared to battery-powered watches
Sensitivity to magnetic fields and shocks

Why Are Automatic Watches Expensive?

As we explained about the functioning of mechanical watches, these types of movements consist of many small, intricately connected parts. Despite technological advancements and the use of machines for assembling these components, a significant portion of the production of mechanical movements is still done by hand. Additionally, the materials used for these small interconnected parts are mostly high-quality metals. Therefore, the high production costs and the complexity of manufacturing mechanical movements are key factors that influence the price of automatic or mechanical watches.

How Valuable Are Precious Stones in a Mechanical Movement?

If you look closely at mechanical movements, you'll likely notice some colorful screws that not only serve a functional purpose but also contribute to the visual beauty of the movement. You may also see inscriptions such as "17 jewels" or "21 jewels" on the dial or back of the case. These colorful components inside the watch's movement are the precious stones. These jewels are placed in various areas of the balance wheel and along the pivot points of the gears. But what is their purpose?

Watchmakers sought a material to replace metal-on-metal friction (inside the mechanical movement) and needed something harder than metal. They tested various stones and jewels until they found that diamonds and sapphires were ideal for this purpose. However, due to the high cost of diamonds, sapphires and other jewels became the preferred choice to reduce friction between metal parts.

The price of the precious stone in a mechanical watch movement

Are the Precious Stones in a Watch Movable for Sale? The simple answer is no. These precious stones are there solely to ensure the proper functioning of the mechanical movement and do not hold value for resale.

Factors Affecting the Lifespan of a Mechanical Watch:

Considering the points mentioned so far, you should understand that while automatic or mechanical watches offer many advantages, they also come with certain sensitivities. Although it is often said that a mechanical watch is a lifetime investment, there are factors that can shorten its lifespan. To ensure you get the best use out of your mechanical watch, we suggest considering the following points:

How to Wind and Set a Mechanical Watch:

One common mistake when winding a mechanical watch (whether automatic or manual) is how to wind it. Keep in mind that winding the mechanical movement with the crown should only be done when the crown is pushed in, and you rotate it in the direction of the hands. When you pull the crown out, the time and hands are adjusted. Additionally, most mechanical watches with a daily calendar feature have a crown that is pulled out in two stages. The first stage is for setting the date, and the second stage is for setting the time. Also, keep in mind that the method for setting the calendar and the features on the watch dial, or the amount of rotation needed to wind the mainspring inside the movement, may vary depending on the caliber of the movement in each watch.

When to Wind an Automatic Watch:

The best time to wind an automatic watch is when you are about to take it off and won't need it until the next day. Even if the watch is still running, it is recommended to wind it using the crown before setting it aside. This way, when you wear it again, you won’t have to reset the time or wind it again.

How Long Does an Automatic Watch Hold a Charge?

If the watch is fully wound (until the crown is tight and no longer turns, or the crown spins freely), it typically runs for 36 to 50 hours. In some mechanical watches, this power reserve may be longer, depending on the caliber and the manufacturer. However, if the watch stops running in less than 24 hours (even when fully wound), it’s a good idea to take it to a watchmaker for inspection.

How Harmful is Prolonged Non-Use of an Automatic Watch?

Prolonged non-use of an automatic watch does not typically cause damage to the watch. However, we recommend that even if you don't plan to wear the watch, you should occasionally take it out of its box and gently shake it to prevent the gears from becoming worn out.

Keep Your Mechanical Watch Away From:

Magnetic fields and dust can be damaging and affect the proper functioning of your watch. Therefore, it’s best to keep your watch away from these factors to ensure it lasts longer.

Who is an Automatic or Mechanical Watch Suitable For?

We generally recommend mechanical or automatic watches to individuals whose jobs are not physically demanding. For example, people with office jobs who spend most of their day sitting at a desk would find an automatic watch to be a better choice. However, for those with active or high-risk jobs, there is a higher chance that the watch's case might get damaged, which could also affect the movement and functionality of the gears, causing performance issues.

Open Heart and Skeleton Watches: Popular Designs for Mechanical Watches:

One of the features that enhances the design of mechanical watches is the visibility of the inner components of the movement on the dial. If part of the movement is visible, it's referred to as an "Open Heart" design. If nearly the entire movement is visible, it's called a "Skeleton" watch. For events, meetings, or important dates, wearing such a mechanical watch with an open heart or skeleton design will certainly elevate your style and make a strong impression, especially for men where the choice of watch can significantly affect their look.

Conclusion:

Among the unparalleled variety of watches, mechanical watches are usually a choice for watch enthusiasts and professionals. Taking proper care of these watches is essential, and they are more suitable for individuals with low-risk jobs for daily use. Additionally, if you want your watch to stand out at events, a mechanical watch will convey that feeling. Charging a mechanical watch requires patience, as you need to ensure the movement is properly wound. If this article has helped you become more familiar with mechanical watches, please share your thoughts with us.

Important Points Before Buying an Automatic Watch (Mechanical Wristwatch)